History of Richard Mille

The young brand officially began only in the year 2001, when after a preparatory period of 3 years of development, the first wristwatch, the RM 001 was presented to the public and was followed by more than fifteen further developed new models within a span of only six years. These Richard Mille timepieces have been created through the application of new materials, methods and concepts in watchmaking the majority of which have never been used before. The concept was based on three pillars: the best of the technique and innovation; an important artistic and architectural dimension, a watch easy to use, robust; and at last the best of the watch culture, each piece being polished and finished by hand. Within this short period the brand has skyrocketed to the forefront, gaining the attention of watch collectors and media alike, being defined as one of the most ultimate and exclusive wristwatches available in the market today, as well as representing a watershed break with traditional watchmaking.

With its core of operations located in Les Breuleux, Switzerland, a village long associated with the Swiss watchmaking tradition, Richard Mille Watches produces his timepieces, with his partner Dominique Guenat. The compagnie HOROMETRIE also works with manufactures such as Renaud & Papi, Vaucher and Soprod.This is in actuality an ancient method that has been in use in Switzerland for centuries. From earliest times, each village, often isolated by the mountainous terrain, developed specific watchmaking specialties, and today watchmaking Switzerland still functions similarly. 2007 will see the new company building being completed in the fall, providing a firm foundation for the further growth and stability of the company and its creations.

The heart of the company is located in the extraordinary setting of Chateau de Monbouan, France, and it is from here that Richard Mille creates the designs and concepts of every possible detail of the watches bearing his name, and also develops his brand.

History of Panerai

Renowned for the exceptional quality of its precision mechanical engineering, Officine Panerai began as a manufacturer of precision instruments and watches for the Royal Italian Navy. Now it has established itself as one of the world’s most celebrated haute horlogerie technical sports watches brand.

1860 Giovanni Panerai, founder of the family business, opens the first watchmaker’s shop in Florence.

1890/1900 Guido Panerai, grandson of the founder, expands his grandfather’s business and gives it new impetus, specializing in high precision mechanisms and becoming official supplier to the Royal Italian Navy.

1900 At the turn of the century, the shop moves to the Piazza San Giovanni site in Florence, where the Panerai boutique can be found today.

1938 Production of Radiomir watches begins for the Italian Navy, with a large (47 mm in diameter) cushion-shaped case, wire loop strap attachments welded to the case, a screw-down crown, a luminous dial easy to read underwater in the dark, and a hand-wound mechanical movement supplied by Rolex .

1940s Creation of the Luminor watch. Its water-resistance is guaranteed by a locking lever device fixed to the case, enabling the watches to descend to a depth of 200 metres, a remarkable achievement for the time. This device would be patented in Italy in 1956 and in the USA in 1960.

1956 At the request of the Egyptian Navy, Panerai creates a large Radiomir watch with an Angelus movement with 8-day power reserve and a scale with 5-minute intervals for calculating immersion times.

1980 Production of a prototype titanium watch designed to survive a pressure equivalent to a depth of 1000 metres.

1997 Richemont acquires Officine Panerai and the company’s range of watches, compasses, torches and depth gauges.

2001 Opening of the first Panerai boutique at the historic site in Piazza San Giovanni in Florence.

2002 Opening of a manufacturing base in Neuchâtel and the first boutique in Asia, in the Prince’s Building in Hong Kong.

2003 Opening of the Panerai boutique in Portofino.

2004 The Radiomir collection is enhanced by the 8 Days model. This is a return to the past, with the re-presentation in a modern key of a mechanism which Officine Panerai had already experimented with, the hand-wound 8-day autonomy movement.

2005 Opening of the Panerai boutiques in Shanghai and Los Angeles. Presentation of the first Panerai in-house movement: the calibre P.2002. This is a hand-wound mechanical movement of the latest technical conception with 8 days autonomy.

For the future: Panerai is increasingly orienting itself towards a consistent product range characteristic of the manufacture of technical haute horlogerie.

History of Urwerk

The new path in Haute Horlogerie

In just 10 years, URWERK’s original approach to watchmaking has shaken the traditionalists and won the respect of collectors.

Irreverent, rebellious, eccentric can each describe URWERK’s watchmaking with varying accuracy, but its watches unerringly open the way forward for mechanical watchmaking in the 21st century.

URWERK is what translates the hearts and minds of its founding partners into sensational watchmaking. Felix Baumgartner, a watchmaker like his father and grandfather, has time running through his veins. A star graduate from the Schaffhausen watchmaking school, Felix learned the secret language of minute-repeaters, tourbillons and perpetual calendars at his father’s bench.

Martin Frei is the artistic counterweight to his partner’s technical expertise. Accepted into the Lucerne’s college of art and design in 1987, Martin delved into every form of visual artistic expression from painting and sculpture to video, emerging as a mature artist.

The two men met by chance and discovered a common fascination with the measurement of time, spending hours analysing the gap between the watches they saw in the shops and the vision of their future creation.

Their first watch, developed in the early nineties, was inspired by the 17th-century night clock built by the Campanus brothers. In it, each hour on a rotating disc rises and sets in an arc like the sun. The wandering hour has since formed the basis for URWERK’s astonishing 103 watch and the latest model, the 201. Both feature highly original design, advanced watchmaking techniques and new concepts such as the control board.

“Bringing out yet another version of an existing mechanical complication was not our aim,” Felix Baumgartner explains. “Our watches are unique because each has been conceived as an original work. This is what makes them valuable and rare. Above all, we want to explore beyond the traditional horizons of watchmaking.” Martin Frey, responsible for the shape of future time, helps make this possible. “I come from a world of total creative freedom. I’m not cast in the watchmaking mould, so I can draw my inspiration from my entire cultural heritage.

That heritage goes back to the roots of time, reflected in the name of their company. URWERK means “original accomplishment,” and Ur of the Chaldees, Abraham’s city in biblical Mesopotamia, is where the Sumerians first observed the concurrence of the heavenly bodies with the seasons, and so developed the first measurements of time.

History of Buame Mercier

Personality, elegance and constant renewal for a brand that finds its creative inspiration in its heritage, since 1830. The Baume & Mercier watchmaking house continues to distinguish itself and surprise with a successful combination of watchmaking expertise and technological innovation.

Baume & Mercier’s history has been marked by a series of fruitful associations: men of charismatic personalities who have worked together in perfect harmony, driven by a single aim - to create watches of the highest quality.
Founding alliance in 1830: Louis Victor and Pierre-Joseph-Celestin Baume found the “Frères Baume” trading entity in the Les Bois village, in the Swiss Jura mountains.

Early 1880s, the second generation: Once again, a two-man leadership is at the helm of Baume. Louis-Victor’s son, Alcide Eugene heads the Swiss firm while Alcide’s brother, Arthur Joseph, manages the London branch.

In 1920, the Baume & Mercier alliance is born: William Baume, third son of Alcide Eugene and grandson of Louis-Victor decides to set up business in Geneva. Baume & Co pursues its expansion in England, while Baume & Mercier, born of the encounter of William Baume and Paul Mercier, becomes a leading name in Genevan watchmaking.

The « Baume & Mercier Genève » trademark is registered on 27th August 1920 .Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, Baume & Mercier timepieces are distributed across 5 continents. Unfortunately, poor health obliges William Baume to retire from the company soon after.

1937 Departure of Paul Mercier and the arrival of Constantin de Gorski. Of Polish extraction, de Gorski is both a brilliant and cultured artist. He continues the winning trend by breathing a renewed spirit of modernity into Baume & Mercier.

1950 Launch of the Marquise watch that becomes a worldwide success.

1964 Piaget purchases Baume & Mercier

1973 Creation of the emblematic 12-sided Riviera watch

1987 Creation of the Linea model, incarnating femininity and audacity.

1988 The watchmaking house becomes part of PBM International, a group specialized in the

production and distribution of luxury watches, controlled by Cartier.

1994 Birth of the Brand’s flagship watch model, Hampton, which is followed by a real dynasty; Hampton Milleis (1999), Hampton Spirit (2002), Hampton City (2003) and the Hampton Classic square (2005).

1996 Baume & Mercier enters the Vendôme group.

1997 Creation of the Catwalk watch re-launches the cuff watch vogue and is an outstanding success.

1998 Launch of the CapeLand, a luxuriously elegant sports watch.

1999 Baume & Mercier becomes a member of the Richemont group.

2004 Baume & Mercier celebrates the 10th anniversary of its flagship line - Hampton

• Creation of the new Riviera, featuring a more contemporary design
• Birth of Classima Executives
• Launch of Vice Versa: the first ladies’ watch-jewel to display time wrist side down
  

2005 Launch of Diamant, a timeless feminine watch destined for multi-faceted women who lead more than one lifestyle in the space of a day.

For the future.
The Baume & Mercier design studio has set itself the firm objective to create innovative watches that remain in step with the times and impose themselves as timeless classics. The Baume & Mercier brand is currently distributed in five continents and views China as a very promising market in the years ahead.

History of Cartier

The name Cartier is synonymous with beautiful objects of quality and style. Although Cartier are perhaps better known for their fine jewellery, their signed wristwatches have made a huge impression on the global watch market and have become increasingly collectable over the years. Many of their fabulous watches can be regarded as pieces of jewellery in their own right and Cartier have become renowned throughout the world.

Louis Cartier (1875-1942) has in fact been credited for creating the first mans wristwatch in 1904, when he designed a watch for his friend and client Brazilian Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos-Dumont was one of the early pioneers of aviation, and he needed a more suitable timepiece for his dare devil flights. He asked Cartier to design something for him and the "Santos" was born, although it did not go on sale until 1911. By that date Louis Cartier had begun the exclusive production of the first wristwatches at his establishment in Paris on the Rue de la Paix, helped by Edmond Jaeger.
Cartier's history really begins when Louis Francois Cartier (1819-1904) followed the steps of his grandfather, also called Louis Francois Cartier (1755-1793), by becoming a goldsmith. He started his career as an apprentice to Adolphe Picard, producing handmade jewellery in a small workshop at 29 Rue Montorgeuil, and quickly developed into one of the finest jewellers in Paris. When his master Picard died in 1847 Cartier succeeded him and the company that bore his name was born.

By 1853 Louis Francois was able to expand his business of designing and selling jewellery to the more fashionable Palais-Royal district, in premised at 5 Rue Neuve des petits Champs. He became a favourite of Princess Mathilde, the cousin of Napoleon III, whose patronage opened the door to Parisian society. This made a move to larger premises at 9 Rue des Italiens a necessity. In 1874 Alfred Cartier (1841-1925) took over the company from his father Louis Francois. Alfred's three sons - Louis, Pierre and Jaques - would eventually turn the family business into a global empire.

In 1898 Cartier made a final move in Paris and they still remain at 13 Rue de La Paix today. Alfred Cartier was accompanied by his son ans associate Louis Cartier, who proved not only an outstanding goldsmith but business man aswell. Louis Cartier's genius was to make Cartiers' name famous worldwide. Consequentley Cartier expanded their empire, opening a London branch in 1902 and in a New York branch in 1909. Fifty years on Louis Francois Cartier set up his first shop and possessed one of the most influential clienteles in the world, including virtually every crowned head in Europe, most of the maharajas of India, and Kings of Siam and Nepal.
Business, jeweller and collector, Louis Cartier was handsome, distinguished and elegant, popular among the Parisian women and well thought of by the aristocracy. He was later to marry Countess Almasey of Hungary. One of his most important clients was the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, who once described Louis Cartier as "the jeweller of Kings, the King among jewellers".

The first London Cartier shop opened at 4 Burlington St in 1902 and was soon appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward. Five years later under the management of the youngest of Alfred Cartier's sons, jaques Cartier (1884-1942), they moved to 175 New Bond St. Jaques Cartier was well suited to the quiet conservative life of London and helped to create new designs and assisted in the purchase of important gemstones, accompanied by his wife Nelly Harjes.
Following the success of their London branch they expanded into the huge American Market by opening a shop in New York run by Pierre Cartier (1878-1965). Just as the London branch was patronised by the aristocracy, so Pierre Cartier had his particular crowd of adoring patrons. Pierre, whose life long ambition had been to become an ambassador, was well suited to the fast pace of life in New York. He eventually married Elma Rumsey a rich girl form Missouri. Cartier Paris initially sent all merchandise for they shop across the Atlantic, but a workshop was soon set up in New York and Pierre with the help of Jules Glaenzer, quickly established the brands image across America.

In 1910 a further two Cartier branches were opened, in Moscow and the Persian Gulf. Soon business was so good in New York that they moved to splendid new premises at 653 Fifth Avenue. The opening of the New York shop had given Cartier worldwide recognition.
Throughout the First World War Cartier continued to do business because of their inventive and original designs. In the inter war years two more branches in fashionable beach resorts were opened, Cartier Cannes in 1935 and Cartier Monte Carlo in 1938. Further branches were opened in Geneva, Hong Kong and Munich. Claude Cartier and Pierres Cartier's son in law Pierre Claudel assisted in the running of the empire.

Louis and Jaques Cartier both died in 1942. Their brother Pierre became the president of Cartier International in 1945 and from then on stayed almost entirely in the shop in Paris until he retired to Geneva in 1947. In the late 1940's Cartier London was run by Jean-Jaques Cartier, while the New York branch was headed by Claude Cartier. In 1962 Claude Cartier sold Cartier New York but remained president of the company until 1963.

By 1968 Cartier had evolved from a family business into an enormous multinational organisation. In 1972 Joseph Kanoui headed a financial syndicate which bought control of Cartier Paris. Robert Hocq became president of the company. He once again united the three branches of Cartier and took over the London and New York Management in a move to re-establish Cartier's image of prestige and importance.

Cartier's great empire has evolved form humble beginnings on the Rue Montorgeuil in fourteen distributing companies in the richest countries in the world. The company is continuing to keep the magic of Cartier alive.

Cartier WatchesFrom the outset Cartier designed watches that were elegant, small, accurate, and a statement of the times in which they were made. Cartier were unique among wristwatch designers and manufacturers because they owned their own retail outlets and were therefore able to stay abreast of changing fashion trends. Their genius for design often meant they set the fashion themselves, instead of following it.

During the early twentieth century any man wearing a wristwatch made a very daring statement, as the classic pocket watch was considered the only timepiece a gentleman should carry. Cartier were a major influence in persuading the Parisian aristocracy to accept the idea of wristwatches for men. The Santos was promoted to show that the adventurous gentleman was wearing a wristwatch in all elements of his life.

The "Tank" wristwatch introduced in 1917 during the First World War, was Cartier's most famous model. Louis Cartier was inspired by the tough new war machine the Americans introduced to the fighting in Europe, the tank to design a rugged yet beautiful watch that became a classic.

Cartier made an exclusive contract with Edmond Jaeger, who moved into Cartier's premises so he could manufacture mechanisms for Cartier's personalized watches. They guaranteed an annual order of at least 250,000 Fr worth of business and in this time Jaeger concentrated on small flat watches.

The early mens wristwatches were all handmade in France, with movements by Jaeger, Cartier Paris and the European Watch and Clock Co, who manufactured complicated movements such as chronographs, minute repeaters, and digital wristwatches.

Ladies wristwatches became popular more quickly as the pocket or fob watch were not as comfortable to wear for women. During the Late 1920's and early 1930's ladies wristwatches began to get smaller and smaller. The smallest was a 2-line movement manufactured by the European Watch and Clock Company and Jaeger.The ability to create many unique wristwatches was of great advantage to Cartier because customers were able to select from various designs, or order custom made pieces. Because the shops only sold their own brand they had no competition from other competitors in store.

Cartier wristwatches were produced with movements by Jaeger, Vacheron, Le Coutre, Cartier itself and The European Watch and Clock Co. These watch cases were manufactured in Paris, Geneva, London and New York, and each branch was responsible for the production of their own wristwatches. However, the French branch exported its watches to other shops.

Cartiers wristwatches were fast becoming the status symbol of the rich, and people became eager to purchase all the unique models that were being manufactured.

In 1931 Cartier designed its first waterproof wristwatch with a three piece case made in Paris. Other designs to come from Cartier Paris were a covered wristwatch, a shutter wristwatch, a reversible wristwatch a chronograph and a minute repeater.

The 1940's saw a period when the "Moonphase" was a very sort after watch. Its movements were generally by Jaeger or the European Watch and Clock Company. Stainless steel was used during the war when gold became less available.

The Cartier London workshop for wristwatches was set up in 1939 and was located at Ormand House, Roseberry Avenue, London EC1. The cases were made by Wright and Davis.

After the Second World War in 1946 Cartier were looking for new designs, keeping up with the tradition of changing times. Cartier London started manufacturing men's wristwatches in a more serious way and the workshops were able to expand quickly because of the popularity of these custom made pieces. Diamond and sapphire watches were very popular during this period, as were Cartier watches with different coloured enamel round the bezel.

The 1960's saw Jean-Jaques Cartier design with R Emerson a wristwatch that was a large uneven shape that looked as if it had been in a car crash. This "Crash" watch was the wristwatch that many people later called the "Dali" watch, after artist Salvador Dali. It really had nothing to do with him however, and the correct name for it is the "Crash" watch. Cartier only manufactured fifteen of these in the 1960's but later released a further series in the 1980's.

The London Cartier workshop produced handmade wristwatches for 43 years, meeting the individual demands for all sorts of customers, and then in 1979 the workshop closed. As the 1970's ended the company as a whole started to use quartz movements for their wristwatches, as they were producing them in such large quantities. Cartier were still able to go back to their original designs and simply adapt the movements to quartz.

In the 1980's Cartier added about a 100 different models to their line and always remained one step ahead of the competition. They manufactured watches in steel, gold and combinations of the two for the fashion conscious people in today's market. This ability to see what the market demands is vital to being able to meet their customers expectations for watches of the greatest style, performance and quality.

Cartier has remained so special because they have always made wristwatches in a variety of shapes, round, square, tortue, tonneau, rectangular, and oval, rather than limiting themselves to one or two shapes. Their designs have always managed to be classic and modern at the same time. A Cartier watch can always be relied upon to make a fashion statement. Their emphasis an quality and design was a heritage from their beginnings as a jewellers. Their jewellery for women has always been among the most beautiful in the world, and remains a collectors pleasure. Cartier have consistently used the best quality for their watch cases, dials and movements, and this has reaped rich rewards as their customers return time after time to acquire more of the unique Cartier Magic.

History of Citizen

Established in 1930, Citizen Watches is the world's largest manufacturer of watches and other timepieces. The company's mastery of precision mechanics and microelectronics has allowed Citizen Watches to offer a wide range of products and services worldwide, developing a global presence operating in more than 13 countries with over 3,000 employees.

Citizen Watches leadership role is due to its unrelenting, uncompromising passion for technological innovation. This mission has resulted in a multitude of milestones, such as the following: The first shockproof Citizen Watches made in Japan; the first waterproof and first electronic Citizen Watches; the world's first water-resistant Citizen Watches, the world's first analog quartz Citizen Watches accurate to within three seconds per year; the first analog solar battery Citizen Watches and the world's thinnest movement at 0.98mm.

Over the years, Citizen Watches has successfully leveraged its expertise in microelectronics to become a major player in the field of office and information equipment. Products include printers, floppy disk drives, hard disk drives, and liquid crystal displays. Because microelectronics are at the core of these Citizen Watches products, they afford users something else very valuable – the ultimate in space efficiency.

From its work with quartz watches, Citizen Watches parlayed its experience with liquid crystal and microelectronic technologies to begin developing liquid crystal televisions, liquid crystal color video projectors, and electronic health care equipment. Most notably, Citizen Watches is the world-leader in the field of quartz oscillators, the heart of all electronic products.

The use of Citizen Watches ultra-precision machine tools are responsible for the development of many innovative high-tech products, and are found in a variety of industries worldwide. Citizen Watches fulfilled the present requirement for sub-micron precision in the field of factory automation, for example, the CINCOM series of compact CNC automatic lathes, the BOARD-PACKER electronic parts inserters, the CYNECTRON automatic assembly machines, and assembly robots – all leaders in their sectors.

In the production of jewelry and eyeglasses, Citizen Watches is able to exploit not only its materials and manufacturing technologies developed in the production of Citizen Watches, but also its sense of aesthetic appeal refined in the same area. In addition to its original design jewelry and eyeglasses, Citizen Watches is continuously called on to manufacturer famous designer brand products under license contracts.

More than 60 years later the Citizen Watches name has become synonymous with miniaturization. But the last six decades mark not only the history and evolution of Citizen Watches the company, but the process and progress of the art of watchmaking and other products utilizing precision mechanics and microelectronics.

Citizen WatchesCitizen Watches offers a highly attractive and extremely varied lineup of watches and clocks that fulfill the diverse needs of users worldwide. In 1986, Citizen Watches became the world's largest watch manufacturer.

Citizen Watches cover the entire function-fashion spectrum. As examples, there is the high grade Noblia Citizen Watches series, the multi-function Citizen Pro Master Citizen Watches series for sports enthusiasts, the analog multi-hand Citizen of the World Citizen Watches series for business executives, the high fashion Clariti Citizen Watches series for ladies, and the super-lightweight Titanium Collection Citizen Watches series.

Citizen Watches "Watches and Lifestyles" message is brilliantly promoted at the Basel Fair, the world's largest watch exhibition, and the JA show in the U.S., through the launch of new Citizen Watches of outstanding contemporary design and function.

History of Jaeger-LeCoultre

Today, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of the most famous watches ever produced, but were you aware that the company got its start producing ebauches for other companies? A little known fact about Jaeger-LeCoultre is that in addition to producing movements for its own watches, the company has also produced movements for famous watch houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and IWC. As a matter of fact, in the early part of the 20th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre even supplied ebauches to the great firm of Patek Philippe. Then as now, Jaeger-LeCoultre was considered one of the finest watchmakers in Switzerland.

The year was 1833 when thirty-year-old Antoine LeCoultre, son of Vallee de Joux watchmaker Jacques LeCoultre, opened a small factory in the town of Le Sentier. Amazingly enough, the current Jaeger-LeCoultre factory is only a few feet away from the site of the original factory. In any event, LeCoultre soon proved himself to be a gifted watchmaker, but an even more brilliant inventor. In 1844, LeCoultre revolutionized the watch industry with the invention of the millionometer, an instrument with which measurements of up to one thousandths of a millimeter could be made accurately. As a result, precisely finished components could be manufactured, resulting in greatly improved accuracy in timekeeping. Likewise, the metric system became the universal measuring standard in watchmaking, while other systems were rendered obsolete.

LeCoultre's motto -- "we must base our experience on science" - was particularly true when it came to manufacturing precision movements and tools. The artistry came later at the hands of a master watchmaker, who assembled, decorated and regulated the movements. In short order, LeCoultre became the leading supplier of movements, parts and tools to the watchmaking industry in Switzerland.

LeCoultre movements were so highly regarded, in fact, that until 1910, the company provided Patek Philippe with most of its raw movements. It was only in later years that Patek Philippe built its own movements from scratch. In the meantime, other companies had come to rely exclusively on LeCoultre's products, from which they would create finished watches. LeCoultre's success was so great that between 1900 and 1919, 40,000 raw movements were produced. Movements sold for between 100 and 400 francs each, not an inconsiderable sum of money back then.

In 1925, the grandson of the firm's founder, David LeCoultre, merged his company with that of Edmond Jaeger, the exclusive supplier of watch movements to Cartier. This is when the modern company known as Jaeger-LeCoultre first came into existence. Incredibly enough, up to this point, Jaeger-LeCoultre had not sold any watches under its own name. The merger, however, prompted further technical innovations, not the least of which was a case made from stainless steel, as well as the creation of the smallest mechanical movement in the world, which weighed less than one gram.

The year 1931 saw the introduction of the Reverso, a wristwatch that could be turned 180 degrees within the case, thereby protecting the crystal and dial. It was a fantastic creation and one that was enthusiastically received by the public. Unfortunately, the worldwide economic crisis and World War II conspired to prevent the Reverso from achieving its full potential. Changing fashions coupled with the advent of waterproof watches might have forever doomed the watch to obscurity, had it not been for an Italian dealer who visited the factory in the 1960's and noticed a number of unused Reverso cases sitting in a watchmakers' drawer. The Italian dealer bought the cases and fitted them with movements. The finished watches were an instant sell-out and the rest is history. Today, the Reverso is by far Jaeger-LeCoultre's most popular model.

Another interesting story concerns David LeCoultre's bid for Patek Philippe. In 1932, Patek Philippe was in major financial straits and looking for a white knight. LeCoultre, whose company manufactured movements for Patek, wanted to acquire a majority interest. He came close to finalizing a deal, but the Stern brothers, whose company supplied the dials used in Patek Philippe watches, ultimately acquired the company. Although Patek Philippe has certainly prospered under the Stern family's management, it is nonetheless interesting to contemplate what effect a Patek Philippe/Jaeger-LeCoultre merger may have had on the Swiss watch industry.

Needless to say, the company has continued to thrive, introducing such innovations as the Memovox, Futurematic, Atmos Clock (which in and of itself could be the subject of an article) and strikingly original movements such as the world's thinnest automatic with a thickness of just 2.35 mm, just to name a few. The thin automatic movement in particular was an incredible success, as both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet featured it in wristwatches advertised as being the world's slimmest self-winding timepieces. During the 1970's and early 1980's, Jaeger-LeCoultre produced a 36 jewel, self-winding calibre for Patek Philippe. Once again, both companies had come full circle.

On a final note, it is worth noting that Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the few companies in Switzerland that still produces its own movements, cases, dials, hands, and bracelets. Virtually every single component in a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is hand-finished, produced in-house, and this in turn results in strict quality control. As a result, Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are recognized as being among the very finest hand-crafted watches available and evidence of this can be seen in the fact that Jaeger-LeCoultre regularly produces such masterpieces as the Reverso Tourbillon and Reverso Minute Repeater. There is also the Master Control series of watches, which boast 1,000 hours of testing and assembly at the patient hands of a master watchmaker.
In any event, if you are contemplating the purchase of a Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch, you've made an excellent choice. It's a highly prestigious and respected brand with a long and wonderful history, as well as a proven track record.

History of Patek Philippe

The Company known today as Patek Philippe was founded in Geneva in 1839, by an exiled Polish Nobleman. Count Antoine Norbert de Patek and his compatriot Francois Czapek. The earliest watches were signed Patek, Czapek & co. until 1845 when Czapek left the partnership. Several years later the company was joined by French watchmaker , Jean Adrien Philippe, who later became the inventor of their famous stem-winding and hand setting mechanism, a modern and reliable concept. From May 1845 to January 1851 the firm was known as Patek & Co; Philippe lent his name to the company in 1851 when he became a full partner. Among the reasons for their initial success was the high standard of watch making and practicality of Philippe's new stem-winding system. In the early years of partnership.

Queen Victoria of England herself was already a client. From the middle of the 19th century, Patek Philippe assumed a leading role in the Swiss watchmaking industry by raising the standards of workmanship and time keeping through the introduction of technical improvements (the free mainspring, the sweep seconds hand), in addition to implementing improvements to regulators, chronographs, and perpetual calendar mechanism. As early as 1867 the Paris Exhibition, Patek Philippe displayed watches featuring functions that were to become the standard for complicated watches at the beginning of the 20th century; namely a perpetual calendar, a repeater, and a chronograph with split-seconds.

The two most complicated watches of all time were made by Patek Philippe. The first, made for Henry Graves Jr. New York, was completed at the beginning of the century, and the second, the Caliber 89, the world's most complicated watch, completed in 1989 (hence the name) to mark the firm's 150th anniversary. In 1932, Patek Philippe changed hands, and its new owners became Charles and Jean Stern. Today the third generation of this family sill owns and manages the company. Shortly after world war II, Patek Philippe established an electronic division, and in the 1950's the company pioneered quartz technology, filling several patents and winning multiple awards. Today, Patek Philippe SA, Geneva, is still a family company, owned jointly by its president, Mr Henry Stern, and his son and Vice President, Mr Philippe Stern. The firm has traditionally made complete timepieces, watches and clocks, employing craftsmen who are master-watchmakers capable of designing and finishing the most complicated watch movements.

Other specialists such as goldsmiths, chainsmiths, enamellers, jewelers, and engravers complete the firm's manufacturing capabilities. Although Patek Philippe is rightly famous of the leading manufacture of mechanical horology, the firm is also the forefront of the industry as producers of industrial and electronic timekeepers, with its highly accurate master-clocks installed in power stations, hospitals, airports, and other public buildings and factories. The firm clientele has included many of the famous figures across history, including royalty such as Queen Victoria, as well as distinguished scientists, artists, authors and musicians, including Albert Einstein, Marie Curie, Charlotte Bronte and Tchaikovsky. Today, clearly most of the firm's production consists of wristwatches, but Patek Philippe retains the ability to produce pocket watches,and clocks to order, from highly complicated movements to those decorated with enamelled miniature paintings and engravings. The company continues to patent new inventions and improvements in horology and plays an important role in maintaining the quality , prestige and reputation of the Swiss watchmaking.

PATEK PHILIPPE TIME-LINE

1839: On May 1, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek founded the firm Patek, Czapek & Co. in Geneva, with head offices located at 29 Quai Des Bergues.

1842: Jean Adrien Philippe made the first watch which could be wound and set by means of crown.

1843: On May 29, Antoine Norbert de Patek obtains Swiss Citizenship.

1844: Antoine Norbert de Patek meets Jean Adrien Phillipe at the universal Exhibition in Paris.

1844: Jean Adrien Philippe is awarded the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris for his revolutionary system of keyless winding.

1845: On April 22, Philippe is accorded Patent no:1317 for his first system of winding by means of the crown.

1845: On May 1st, Antoine Norbert de Patek with his partners Jean Adrien Philippe and Vincent Gostkowski found in Geneva the firm Patek Philippe & Co, located at 15 quai Des Bergues.

1845: On May 17, The firm Patek, Czapek & Co changes name, officially adopting the name Patek & Co.

1851: On January 1, the same partners, establish a new company with the name Patek Philippe &Co.

1854: Tiffany & Co., New York, becomes an official customer of Patek Philippe & Co, in the US.

1860: On October 4, Adrien Philippe is granted a patent of his fifth system of winding by means of the crown, Patent no.46951.

1861: On September 27, Adrien Philippe further develops patent.

1862: On May 23, a hunting case pocket watch is put on sale; it is the 18k gold, no.19850, montre a tact, quarter hour and hour repeating; 20''' movement of gilt brass, 19 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic balance, flat hairspring.

1863: On June 16, Adrien Philippe is accorded Patent No.58941, for the slipping mainspring. this invention allows simultaneous winding of 2 or more mainspring barrels, a technique which is the foundation for all further development of self winding systems in wristwatches. This "slipping" spring makes the mainspring slide a few degree towards the inside of the barrel while staying fully wound. The end of the spring passes from one groove to another inside the barrel, stopping each time, thus keeping the spring under constant tension.

1863: Adrien Philippe writes: Les montres sans clef, a work on pocket watches wound by means of a crown in the pendant. This work was published in both Geneva and Paris.

1865: Sale of an 18k gold astronomical pocket watch, No.24919, with a double dial, one for a perpetual calendar and thermometer, the other for a solar dial with compass and equation of time. A second, similar, watch is sold in 1868.

1868: Creation of a watch mounted on a gilt bracelet with baguette movement, key winding. Enamel dial.

1876: On January 21, Vincent Gotkowski retires from the firm Patek Philippe

1876: Three employees of the firm replace Vincent Gostkowski: Albert Cingria, Gabriel Marie Rouge and Edouard Kohn.

1877: On March 1, Antoine Norbert de Patek dies.

1880: The first prize in the Chronometer Competition of the Geneva Observatory is obtained by a pocket chronometer with lever escapement and a Breguet over coil hairspring.

1881: On April 16, Adrien Philippe is accorded Patent No. 142376 for a micro metric adjustment to the index regulator subsequently adopted for all the chronometro Gondolo as well as by many other pocket watches and wristwatches.

1887: On April, 27, at 8 a.m. , the trademark PATEK PHILIPPE & Cie Fabricants a Geneve is registered with No. 1881, with the symbol of the Calatrava cross.

1889: On May 23, a perpetual calendar mechanism is protected by Patent No. 1018

1889: A system of winding with two mainspring barrels for independent seconds movements is granted a patent.

1891: January, Adrien Philippe passes the company management to the youngest of his five children, Joseph Emile Philippe, and to Francois Antoine Conty.
1891: Edouard Kohn leaves Patek Philippe and takes up management of the firm of watchmakers Henri-Robert Ekegren.
1893: A mechanism for the isolation of the minute recorder is patented; it can be applied to simple watches as well as to those with split-seconds.
1894: On January 5, Jean Adrien Philippe dies.
1897: A patent is granted for a fixing device for the opening spring of the cover, set on the band of the watch case
1899: A patent is granted for a push-bottom system to trigger the minute repeater.
1900: From this year through 1967, Patek Philippe receives 764 prizes at the Geneva Observatory competitions, 187 of which are first prizes..
1901: On February 1, the firm of Patek, Philippe & Co. becomes a Joint Stock Corporation under the name Ancienne Manufacture D' Horlogerie Patek Philippe &Cie S.A.
1902: On March 10, at 8am the trademark Chronometro Gondolo is registered with No. 14401. Characteristics of the Gondolo chronometer in its various sizes and in pocket or wristwatch from are the lever a moustaches, the eccentric micrometric regulation the 9k gold wheels and the movement with 18 19 20 and 21 jewels for pocket watches.
1902: On November 13, a double chronograph mechanism is granted Paten No. 27052
1903: A patent is granted to a hairspring regulator with upper en-piece for all types of watches.
1904: On March 3, a new system of winding-crown is granted Patent No. 30474
1904: A patent is granted for an instantaneous transmission mechanism in chronograph minute recorders.
1904: A patent is granted for an extra-flat watch movement.
1906: The firm delivers to Tiffany in New York, 12 minute repeating movements, which will first be used for pendant watches and later for wristwatches.
1910: On March 24 an 18k gold hunting-case pocket watch. No 138285, with the Arms of the Duke of Regla in multicolored enamel is sold. Westminster carillon. Grande et petite Sonnerie on 5 gongs minute repeater, 22 movement, rhodium plated, 38 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring.
1915 : Creation of the first Lady's wristwatch in platinum with 5 minute repeater, 10th caliber with 29 jewels, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet over coil hairspring.
1916: On January 31, a very complicated astronomical pocket watch is sold to James Ward Packard; it is in 18k gold, No. 174129, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, phases of the moon, Grande et Petite Sonnerie on 3 gongs, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and diablotine at a fifth of a second, 60-minute and 12-hour recorders, up and down indicators for both the movement and the chime, 22nd movement, rhodium plated, 58 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring with micrometric regulation.
1916: On July 24, an astronomical pocket watch, in 18k gold (started in 1898) with indication of he equation of time, sunrise and sunset perpetual calendar and phases of the moon, is sold. The equation system rotates and is mounted on the axis of the central wheel on the back plate.
1917: On July 16, an astronomical pocket watch is sold to James Ward Packard. It is in 18K gold. No. 174623, perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset phases of the moon, double barrel, 25''' movement, 21 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet hairspring.
1919: On November 19, the 18K gold watch No. 174720 is sold to James Ward Packard; it is a crown-winding minute repeater with push-button release and 1-minute tourbillon regulator, with 30-hour power reserve. The first class precision bulletin was obtained from the Geneva Observatory with this watch.
1920: On March 23, an astronomical 18K gold pocket watch No. 174749 is sold to James Ward Packard; it has Westminster Carillon, Grande et Petite Sonnerie on 4 gongs, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the movement and the chime. 22''' rhodium-plated movement, 37 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring with micrometric regulation.
1925: Beginning of the construction of minute repeating wristwatch movements.
1925: Patek Philippe makes the world's first instantaneous changing perpetual calendar wristwatch, with indication of leap years. Originally it had been created as a lady's pendant watch, 12''' movement, No. 97975, 20 jewels, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring.
1925: Patek Philippe obtains an exceptional result, winning the first prize in the chronometer trials, with a pocket chronometer, obtaining 848 points (7 more points than the best naval chronometers) at the Geneva Observatory.
1926: Fabrication of the first single push-button wrist chronograph, with 13''' movement, 19 jewels. This type of movement is housed is housed in classic, cushion- "tortue" and "tonneau" shaped cases in yellow pink white gold platinum or steel.
1927: Fabrication of a gentleman's watch for left-handed individuals, with split-seconds chronograph, and 30-minute recorder, 13''' rhodium plated movement, No. 198012, 21 jewels, 18k gold cushion shaped case.
1927: On January 20, the first "carry-galbe" wrist chronograph is sold by Patek Philippe with 13'' movement, for the amount of 2,135 Swiss Francs.
1927: On March 8, a hunting-case 18k gold pocket watch No. 198014, minute repeater and music alarm is sold to James Ward Packard. The tune is taken from the opera Jocelun by B. Godard, 29th rhodium plated movement, 48 jewels lever escapement bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil with micrometric regulation.
1927: On April 6, an 18k gold astronomical hunting-case pocket watch No. 198023 is sold to James Ward Packard; 3-gong minute repeater, double dial. On the first, perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, sunset and sunrise and equation of time; on the second dial a star chart as from Warren, Ohio.
1927: In the month of July the production of wristwatches with split-seconds chronograph begins. The split-seconds chronograph can record two readings simultaneously. These watches have classic, cushion, "tortue" and "tonneau" shaped cases in yellow, pink, whit gold platinum or steel.
1927: On October 13, the first instantaneous jumping perpetual calendar wristwatch, built in 1925, is sold.
1928: Manufacturing of wristwatches with complete, but not perpetual, calendar begins and some models have the phases of the moon. They have a movement of 11''' or 12'''. The cases of these watches have a classic "tortue" shape and subsequently a Calatrava model with Ref. 96 The cases are in yellow punk white gold, platinum or steel.
1928: Manufacture of the only pocket chronometer with 52 ฝ minute Karousel regulator, 19''' movement, in gilt brass, Geneva quality seal, Lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, flat overcoil hairspring.
1929: On January 31 an astronomical pocket watch No. 198240 in 18k gold is sold to James Ward Packard. It is fitted whit several complications including perpetual calendar with retrograde date display, phases of the moon, Grande et petite Sonnerie minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and 30-minute recorder, up and down indicators for the movement and the chime, 21''' rhodium plated movement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring with micrometric regulation.
1929: Beginning of the manufacture of wristwatches with jumping digital hours, 10''' caliber, and other models with jumping hours and minutes. The cases of these wristwatches are rectangular or "tortue" shape, either in gold or platinum. Subsequently, as the watches did not become popular, the production was stopped.
1930: Creation of the 13''' Q caliber, split-seconds chronograph and 30-minute recorder, with rectangular push-buttons. Only three pieces were made with Ref. 2571. Wristwatches manufactured either in yellow or pink gold.
1930: Beginning of the Fabrication of a wristwatch with split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar, which will be completed in 1938, the year of its sale (movement No. 198393).
1930: Beginning of the fabrication of a wristwatch with minute repeater, perpetual calendar, platinum case, movement No. 198340, 29 jewels.
1930: Patek Philippe manufactures a special wristwatch with perpetual calendar, date and rectrograde date display, cushion case, 13''' movement, No. 198167.
1930: Beginning of the use of the 9''' round caliber for wristwatches, used until the beginning of the 1940s. This movement is housed in Calatrava and other shape of cases. These watches were made in yellow, pink white gold, platinum or steel.
1932: The brothers Charles and Jean Stern acquire the majority of the shares of Patek Philippe & Cie.
1933: Fabrication of the gentleman's rectangular wristwatch, Reversible of which very few examples were made. One was given as a gift by Charles and Jean Stern to an employee in commemoration of his 20 years of service. The case is made of gold, with a 9''' movement.
1933: The most complicated watch ever manufactured by Patek Philippe up to 1989 up to 1989, second only to the Calibre 89 is sold to Henry Graves Junior. Astronomical double dial watch, perpetual calendar phases of the moon, sidereal hours, minutes and seconds, equation of time, sunrise and sunset star chart for the New York sky, Westminster carillon, Grande et Petite Sonnerie on 5 gongs, minute repeater and alarm, chronograph, fly-back and 60-minute and 12-hours recorders, power reserve indicators for the movement and the chime, Movement, 25''', in rhodium-plated nickel, No. 198385, 70 jewels, lever escapement, bimetallic balance wheel, Breguet overcoil hairspring.
1934: Henri Stern, son of Charles Stern, becomes responsible for the distribution on the American Market and founds the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York.
1934: Manufacture of the 9''-90 calibre, of which 17'890 pieces were made and used until about 1987. The movement is "tonneau" shaped and is housed in wristwatches of different shapes and metals: yellow, pink, white gold or platinum and rarely, steel. Among them are references: 425/1, 494, 528 562, 564, 579, 596, 1434, 1450, 1480, 1482, 1507, 1553, 1593, 2495, 2440, 2441, 2442, 2443, 2456/1, 2471, 2503, 2517, 2519.
1935: Manufacture of the 8'''-80 rectangular caliber, of which 3'918 pieces were made and used until about 1960.
1935: Manufacture of the 12'''-120 round caliber, of which 24'188 pieces were made and used until 1953. the movement is housed in classic, round or fantasy cases. These watches are manufactured in yellow, pink, white gold, platinum or steel. Among them are references: 96, 1435, 1510, 1527, 1528, 1534, 1543, 1565, 1571, 1582, 1583, 1584, 2405, 2428, 2431, 2439, 2459, 2478, 2511.
1936: Delivery of the second of the two very rare wristwatches made on special request by the London firm Goldsmiths & Silversmiths of 14 and 16''' diameter, movement and sonnerie de bord in passing with repeater. The mechanism is operated by a push-button coaxial with the winding-crown.
1936: Fabrication of two lady's rectangular wristwatches, Reversible.
1936: Manufacture of the 8'''-85 round caliber, of which 8'300 pieces were made and in use up to the year 1967. The movement is housed in square, fantasy, asymmetrical, driver's wristwatches. In yellow, pink, white gold or platinum. Among them we ca find references: 556, 560, 576, 588, 589, 1421, 1478, 3424/1.
1936: Manufacture of an astronomical wristwatch with perpetual calendar. Rectrograde date display and phases of the moon, 11''' movement.
1937: Manufacture of a unique model of World Time wristwatch. Ref. 515, 10''' round caliber, housed in a "gable" rectangular case. The universal hour dial is fixed and indicates 28 cities based on New York mean time.
1937: Manufacture of a gentleman's wrist chronograph with one push-button and 30-minute recorder, 13''' rhodium plated movement, 18 jewels, 18k gold "carre galbe" case.
1937: Manufacture of a gentleman's wrist chronograph with one push-button and 30-minute recorder, 13''' rhodium plated movement, 23 jewels, platinum case.
1938: Manufacture of the 12''' caliber with base caliber of 12'''-120, in use up to 1950. The movement is round with center-seconds hand, with indirect transmission; it is housed in round wristwatches, in yellow, pink, white gold, platinum or steel. Among them are references: 96 SC, 592, 1497, 1536.
1939: Manufacture of the 12'''-120 HU (Heures Universelles) housed in gold wristwatches. In the watch the outer crown with the name of the cities is rotated manually, while the crown moves the intermediate ring divided in 24 hours. Some of these World Time models have the 12 hour dial in cloisonn้ enamel
1939: Fabrication of an "Observatory model" gentleman's watch, Calatrava case Ref. 570, 13''' rhodium-plated movement, 18 jewels, Guillaume balance, Breguet over coil hairspring, lever escapement.
1939: Manufacture of the 10''' 405 round caliber, of which 1'914 pieces were made and in use up to 1946. The movement is housed in round and square wristwatches in either yellow or pink gold with differently Designed cases and lugs. Among these watches are references: 1406, 1410, 1413, 1414
1940: Fabrication by special request of a unique wristwatch with World Time indicator, with chronograph and pulsometer.
1940: Manufacture of the 10'''-110 round caliber, of which 2'463 pieces were made and in use up to 1950. The movement is housed in round, rectangular or square cases, either in yellow or pink gold, with different Designs both for cases and lugs. Among them the are references: 1428, 1469, 1525, 1537, 1539, 1542, 1548, 1551, 1940. Beginning of the construction, by special request, of a wristwatch with complete calendar finished in 1942. In this model, the date display ca be found in the center of the dial and the day of the week and of the month on two cylinders between the two of the dial and the day of the week and of the month on two cylinders between the two lugs (Ref. 1490)
1941: Beginning of the production of the astronomical wristwatch with perpetual calendar and phases of the moon, chronograph and 30-minute recorder, square buttons, Ref. 1518, with 13''' Q caliber, of which 281 pieces were made and used up to 1954. These wristwatches are made in yellow, pink gold or stainless steel.
1942: Manufacture of 7'''-70 round caliber, of which 11'780 pieces were made and used up to 1969.
1942: Making of 12'''-120 Q caliber with perpetual calendar, of which 210 pieces were made up to 1952 with Ref. 1526. These wristwatches are made in yellow, pink or stainless steel.
1944: Patek Philippe obtains first prize in the Geneva Chronometry Competition with a movement of the category D (max. diameter 39mm). First prizes were also attained in 1946, 1948, 1954, 1956, 1957, 1959, 1960, and 1964. Manufacture of 12''' SCQ caliber with perpetual calendar, center-seconds, only 12 pieces made before 1947 with Ref. 1591. These wristwatches are in either yellow or pink gold.
1945: Creation of a 13''' ผ wristwatch with one minute Tourbillon, 18 jewels, lever escapement, Guillaume balance, Breguet free-spring overcoil hairspring. Designed and made by the master-watchmaker Andre Bornand. Chronometric precision regulation by Andre Zibach, who participated in the Chronometry Competitions of the Geneva Observatory in 1949, 1951 and 1953, obtaining a "Precision Bulleting" in 1958.
1946: Manufacture of the 10'''-200 round caliber, of which 20'197 pieces were made and in use up to 1965. The movement is housed in round, square and rectangular cases, in yellow pink, white gold, platinum or steel, with different Design of the cases and lugs. Among them are references: 431, 482, 1419 (also with 10''' -105 calibre), 1458 (also with 10'''-105 calibre), 1519, 2407, 2408, 2440, 2488, 2496, 2501, 2527, 2528, 2546, 2547, 2548, 2549/1, 2549/2, 3496.
1948: Creation of the Electronic Division
1949: On May 15, a patent is granted for the "Gyromax" balance wheel.
1949: Manufacture of the 27 SC round caliber, of which 12'879 pieces were made and in use up to 1970. The movement is housed in wristwatches, with center-seconds, some pieces with cloisonn้ enamel cases. The cases are in yellow, pink, white gold, platinum or steel. Among them are references: 2457, 2460, 2467, 2467, 2481, 2482, 2508, 2514.
1950: Beginning of the manufacture of the wristwatch Ref. 2499, 13''' Q caliber, perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, 30 minute recorder and chronograph, first with rectangular push-buttons, later with round ones. A total 349 pieces were made up to 1985. the cases are in yellow, pink or white gold and two pieces are in platinum.
1950: Manufacture of the round 12''' -400 calibre, of which 10000 pieces were made and in use until about 1961. The movement is housed in classic round cases in yellow, pink, white gold, platinum or steel. Among them are references : 2532, 2536, 2537, 2538/1, 2560, 2569 2570.
1950: Andre Zibach and Eric Jaccard begin the construction of a movement caliber 34 S "tonneau", with lever escapement for the Chronometry Competitions, Category D. Finished in 1952.
1951: Sale of three gentleman's astronomical wristwatches, perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, split-seconds chronograph and 30-minute recorder. Gold case. Ref. 2571. Movement 13''' rhodium plated, 25 jewels, lever escapement, mono metallic balance with 18'000 oscillation per hour, self-compensating Breguet overcoil hairspring with micrometric regulator, manufactured in 1930.
1952: Manufacture of caliber 27 SCQ with perpetual calendar, phases of the moon, of which 179 pieces are made up to 1963. Housed in wristwatches Ref. 2438/1 and Ref. 2497, in yellow, pink or white gold, (chronometers) with 13''' round caliber, Guillaume balance for the Chronometry Competitions of Geneva Observatory. These Watches in gold or platinum, with Ref. 2458.
1953: Manufacture of the 12'''-600 AT caliber, of which 7'100 pieces were made and in use up to 1960. Movement with bi-directional winding. Gold rotor.
1953: On March 31, a patent is granted for a system of automatic winding which prevents inertia of the rotor by means of a ring of eccentric rotation. It thus launches the first automatic caliber: the 12'''-600 AT (automatic), with central rotor in guilloche 18k gold.
1954: Manufacture of automatic wristwatches with indication of the two time zones on two parallel dials, but with a single movement. The hands of the two zones can be separately adjusted.
1956: Manufacture of caliber 23-300, round. The movement is fitted in round, square and asymmetrical cases, in prototypes (not made in series) and also in the Ellipse watch up to 1975, the watches are made in yellow, pink, white gold or in platinum. Among these pieces are references: 2592, 2594/10, 3405A, 3412, 3413, 3548.
1956: On July 31, a special mechanism for a system of automatic winding to reduce friction is granted Patent No. 315161
1956: Creation of the First autonomous quartz clock.
1958: On July 31, the firm Patek Philippe is accorded Patent No. 331592 for a system of adjustable fixing of the hairspring to the balance-cock.
1958: Henri Stern is appointed President and General Manager of Patek Philippe, Geneva.
1958: Creation of a prototype wristwatch with linear minute and hour indicator (not made in series). Patent No. 338402. This watch in 18k gold with bracelet has a rectangular horizontal shape, Movement No. 977121, 9'''-90 caliber, "Gyromax" balance.
1958: The master-watchmaker Andre Bornand Modifies the rectangular caliber 34 S and fits in with a 57-hour power reserve, 50-seconds Tourbillon regulator with Guillaume balance, bronze-beryllium cage, weight of 1,018 grams including escapement, 21'600 oscillations per hour. Five of these chronometers were built between 1958 and 1966. All obtained first class chronometry bulletins and two won the first prize in their category in the Geneva Observatory competition.
1959: Manufacture of caliber 13,5-320, round, of which 25'000 pieces were made and used up to around 1971.
1959: On July 31, a device for the two time zone watch is granted Patent No. 340191. The hour hand can be adjusted without moving the minutes hand.
1960: Manufacture of caliber 27-460, round of which 6,900 pieces were made and in use up to 1970. Automatic movement with 18k gold bi-directional rotor. It is generally fitted in classical round watches in yellow pink or white gold or steel.

History of Seiko

Although the Seiko name was adopted in 1924 with the introduction of its first wrist watch, the company was actually founded 43 years earlier by a clockmaker in Tokyo's Ginza District. Applauded for its accuracy and craftsmanship, the Seiko watch became a resounding success and by 1938, demand for the timepieces pushed yearly production to well over one million watches. Dedicated to technology advancement and precise manufacture, the Seiko Company has repeatedly staked its reputation on performance, acting as the Official Timer of the Olympic Games in Tokyo, Sapporo, Barcelona, Lillihammer and Nagano.

Seiko's many design innovations include the world's first quartz watch, the world's first LCD quartz watch with six digit display, and the world's first intelligent analog quartz watch with alarm and timer function. In 1992, with the introduction of the Kinetic design, once again Seiko rewrote the state of the art. The Seiko Kinetic collection is a line of quartz watches that are electrically charged by movement. The Kinetic Auto Relay goes into suspended animation when unworn for three days, thus conserving energy. With a few shakes of the wearer's wrist, it wakes up and resets itself to the exact time.

Other trend-setting, multi-functional watches by Seiko include the Perpetual Calendar series which automatically reset their date settings for the next 100 years; the Chronograph collection with dual stopwatch features; the Le Grande Sport series, a classic combination of contemporary European design and functionality; and the Ladies Jewelry collection, an elegant marriage of versatility and style.

Seiko Chronological Timeline:

1881 Establishment by Kintaro Hattori of K. Hattori & Co., Ltd., predecessor of todays's SEIKO CORPORATION.

1892 Foundation of Seikosha clock supply factory. Production of wall clocks begins.

1895 Production of fob watches begins. Seiko brand watch (1924) .

1899 Production of alarm clocks begins.

1902 Production of table clocks and musical clocks begins.

1913 Production of the first wrist watch made in Japan begins.

1917 K. Hattori & Co., Ltd. becomes a public company.

1924 SEIKO brand first used on watches.

1937 Watch production split off as Daini Seikosha Co., Ltd., independent predecessor of today's Seiko Instruments Inc.

1942 Establishment of watch producer, Daiwa Kogyo Ltd., predecessor of today's Seiko Epson Corporation.

1955 Production of the first self-winding wrist watch made in Japan begins. Replica exhibited in the Smithsonian Museum from 1999.

1958 Introduction of quartz clocks for broadcasting use.

1959 Introduction of transistorised table clocks.

1963 Development of portable quartz chronometer.

1964 SEIKO serves as Official Timer of Tokyo Olympic Games in Japan.

1968 Establishment of subsidiary in Hong Kong.

1969 Introduction of Seiko Astron, world's first quartz watch (35SQ).

1970 Establishment of Seiko Time Corporation in USA.

1971 E stablishment of Seiko Time (U.K.) Ltd. Seiko Time Corporation in the USA opens its first office in Canada.

1972 Establishment of Seiko Time GmbH in the former Federal Republic of Germany. SEIKO serves as Official Timer of Sapporo Winter Olympic Games in Japan.

1973 Introduction of world's first LCD quartz watch with six-digit digital display (06LC).

1974 Establishment of Seiko Time Ltd. in Brazil.

1975 Introduction of world's first multi-function digital watch.

1976 Introduction of world's first quartz alarm clock.

1977 Establishment of subsidiary in Australia. Establishment of subsidiary in Panama.

1978 Establishment of subsidiary in Switzerland. SEIKO serves as Official Timer of World Cup Football Championships in Argentina. Introduction of world's first very-fine adjusted ultra-accurate Twin Quartz watch, with less than five seconds deviation per year.

1979 Establishment of subsidiary in Sweden.Introduction of Pulsar brand.Introduction of Alba brand .

1980 Establishment of subsidiary in the Netherlands.

1981 Establishment of representative office in Dubai.Introduction of Lassale brand.

1982 SEIKO serves as Official Timer of World Cup Football Championships in Spain.Introduction of world's first TV watch.Introduction of Lorus brand.

1983 K. Hattori & Co., Ltd. renamed as Hattori Seiko Co., Ltd.Introduction of world's first watch with sound-recording functions.

1984 Introduction of world's first "talking" clock, the Seiko Pyramid Talk.

1986 SEIKO serves as Official Timer of World Cup Football Championships in Mexico.

1987 SEIKO serves as Official Timer of 2nd IAAF World Championships in Athletics in Italy.

1988 Introduction of quartz watch with sweep second hand. Introduction of quartz watch powered by the wearer's movement, requiring no batteries.Introduction of world's first intelligent analogue quartz watch with alarm, chronograph and timer functions controlled by an IC "computer on a chip.

1989 Establishment of subsidiary in Thailand.

1990 Major associated companies overseas begin to use the SEIKO name.Hattori Seiko Co., Ltd. renamed as SEIKO CORPORATION.SEIKO serves as Official Timer of World Cup Football Championships in Italy.Introduction of the Seiko "The Age of Discovery" collection.Introduction of the Seiko Scubamaster, world's first computerised diver's watch to incorporate a dive table.Introduction of the Seiko Receptor MessageWatch incorporating a miniaturised FM subcarrier.

1991 Establishment of subsidiary in Finland.Establishment of subsidiary in Taiwan.SEIKO serves as Official Timer of 3rd IAAF World Championships in Athletics in Tokyo, Japan.Introduction of the Seiko Perpetual Calendar with the world's first "millennium-plus calendar".

1992 SEIKO serves as Official Timer of Barcelona Olympic Games in Spain.

1993 Introduction of the Golf-Club (S-YARD).

1994 Establishment of a representative office in Beijing.SEIKO serves as Official Timer of Lillehammer Winter Olympic Games in Norway.Introduction of Seiko KINETIC series.

1995 Introduction of Alba "Spoon" series.

1996 Establishment of SEIKO Optical Products, Inc. Establishment of SEIKO Clock Inc.Establishment of SEIKO Precision Inc.

1997 Establishment of SEIKO Jewelry Co., Ltd.Establishment of SEIKO Watch Sales Inc., merger of watch operations and marketing functions.Change Japanese company name to SEIKO Kabushiki Kaisha.Introduction of SEIKO KINETIC ARCTURA.

1998 SEIKO serves as Official Timer of Nagano Winter Olympic Games in Japan. Introduction of Perpetual Calendar watch driven by world's first ultrasonic micromotor.Introduction of the SEIKO THERMIC, the world's first watch driven by body heat.

1999 Introduction of the SEIKO KINETIC AUTO RELAY watch, which automatically resumes correct indication of current time.Introduction of hand wound spring-drive watch with quartz accuracy.

2000 Establishment of SEIKO S-YARD Co., Ltd.

History of A. Lange Sohne

"Magnificent" and "bold" are just a few of the superlatives which come to mind when watch lovers describe A. Lange Sohne timepieces. Re-formed in 1994 following the reunification of Germany, this upstart watch company, based in Glashutte, has, in just a few short years, established itself as one of the most prestigious luxury watch brands in the world. The company's story is, in many ways, quite compelling.

On December 7, 1845, Adolph Lange set up his own production workshops in Glashutte, near Dresden, laying the foundation of Saxony's -- and Germany's -- precision-watchmaking industry. For some years, he had been studying ways of producing high-value timepieces of consistent quality in series, and now was the opportunity to realize his ambitions. He started the enterprise with his brother-in-law, the master watchmaker Adolf Schneider, and 15 apprentices.

During his travels, Adolph Lange had drawn meticulously precise plans for new machine tools in his journal/workbook, and had embarked upon the exact determination of movement parts, gearing calculations and conversion tables between the French ligne and the metric system.
His vision and ideas began to take shape. Soon, a fundamental break with many of the traditional artisan techniques became apparent at Adolph Lange's first Glashutte workshops.

The introduction of powerful flywheel lathes increased the speed and precision of parts manufacture. His theories on the division of labor encouraged many of his employees over the years to set themselves up in specialist workshops for watch jewels, screws, wheels, mainspring barrels, balance wheels and hands. In this way, Glashutte could become independent from foreign suppliers.

Growing demand for Lange's precision pocket watches, coupled with increasing economic prosperity after the foundation of the German empire, meant that Lange's first workshops soon became too small. Adolph Lange established new facilities for his workforce that had meanwhile grown to almost 60 employees. The buildings, which they occupied in 1873, became the family compound.

The premises accommodated the typical 19th century business organization of the owner-manager, with the Lange family home and the watch-manufacturing workshops in the same complex. As a unique feature, Adolph Lange built a master clock for the new building. It had a nine-meter pendulum of cedarwood and zinc, which weighed 128 kilos.

The Lange family complex marked the golden age of Lange watchmaking from the end of the Franco-Prussian war in 1871 to the Great Depression. In 1895, a telephone link to the Berlin Observatory was installed to get accurate time signals for a new chronometry workshop that expanded the watchmaking facilities.

It was also during this time that Lange's most beautiful pocket watches were produced -- among them, a spectacular Grande Complication repeating pocket watch with split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar and moon phase, circa 1908.

The Lange family house was the birthplace of Adolph Lange's grandchildren and great-grandchildren, and it was here that Walter Lange spent his childhood and youth. On May 8, 1945, the main production building -- known as the "hangar" -- was demolished in a bombing raid. Shortly after it was rebuilt, the A. Lange Sohne Company was expropriated by the Socialist government and all the buildings seized. Like so many watch companies, the production of high-quality wristwatches and pocket watches came to a grinding halt.

The reunification of Germany gave Walter Lange the courage to claim the legacy of a family tradition that he had given up on. On December 7, 1990, 145 years to the day after his great-grandfather Adolph Lange founded the business, he arrived in Glashutte and started a new company, Lange Uhren GmbH.

The news spread like wildfire -- "Herr Lange is back!" Job applications came flooding in; many of the keen young hopefuls presented themselves as descendants of earlier Lange employees whom Walter Lange knew personally. He was thus able to quickly recruit a core workforce from the best craftsmen in Glashutte. It was a far cry from the circumstances surrounding Adolph Lange's endeavor in 1845, when he had to train raw farm lads and simple laborers in the delicate work of watchmaking.

Unfortunately, no suitable factory premises were available, and efforts to reclaim or repurchase the old Lange family buildings were unsuccessful. So it was in the former premises of the precision clock manufacturers, Strasser Rohde, that the new production facility could be set up. The building was subsequently converted into one of the finest horological workshops, boasting the latest in modern technology, and it was in 1994 that the company produced watches that once again bore the celebrated name of A. Lange Sohne.

Today, Lange watches are a truly unique product. Although plates, bridges, steel parts, wheels and pinions are cut with exceptional precision by the most advanced computer-aided machine tools, they are always finished, decorated and engraved by hand. Movements are meticulously assembled and adjusted in five positions. Gold or blued steel hands indicate the time and other functions on solid silver dials, and each masterpiece is housed in a case of gold or platinum.

The new-era Lange watches are far from being mere reproductions of the world-renowned timepieces made by Lange before World War II. Yet they bear the imprint and even some of the recognizable features of their predecessors, along with the application of horological complications, which constitutes a particular attraction for enthusiasts and collectors. A few of the company's best known models include the LANGE 1, LANGE 1 TOURBILLON, SAX-O-MAT, and LANGEMATIK.

In summary, the name A. Lange Sohne is a promise of a watch that is different and rare. Its exacting manufactory allows neither compromise nor short cuts -- only the highest possible standard of mechanical quality and precision. The costs involved mean that such a watch is not cheap, either. But whether old or new, a Lange watch always retains its exclusiveness and will continue to be coveted by watch collectors around the world.

• Manufacturer is German, not Swiss.


• Founded by Ferdinand A. Lange in 1845.


• The name A. Lange Sohne was established by Aldoph Lange 1868 in Glasshutte, Saxony.


• In Glashutte, Ferdinand’s great grandson Walter, observed the Soviet bombing, looting and confiscation of the factory in 1948. This marked the official end of the Lange company.


• The new Lange Uhren GmbH was registered in 1990 with the help of Walter, the International Watch Company (IWC) and Mannesman (later known as Richmont).


• Their first watch went to market in 1994. They emphasized on movements, watch designs, in-house assemblies and quality engineering and finishing.


• The first model was the complicated and adventurous Lang 1. Later they released the hand wound 1815, which delivered more than promised.


• All movements used in Lange watches are designed and manufactured inhouse.

History of Audemars Piguet

A trio of warships christened Royal Oak, named after the legendary "royal oak" - a hollowed out tree which offered King Charles II a safe hiding place from his pursuers - lent their distinctive name in 1972 to an equally distinctive luxury sports watch - the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet. Since then, the Royal Oak has become the leading model of the world-famous firm in Le Brassus and helped the stainless steel wristwatch attain respectability among watch lovers around the world.

The Audemars Piguet story begins in 1875 when twenty three year old watchmaker Jules Audemars and future partner Edward-August Piguet, just twenty-one years of age, met in the Vallee de Joux. Both had learned the watchmaker's trade after finishing public school in their hometown of Le Brassus by training at the bench and returned to the Vallee de Joux to find jobs in the local watchmaking industry. Jules Audemars was soon producing raw components for watch movements, while Edward-August Piguet sought employment as a "repasseur" (a master watchmaker who performs the final regulation on a watch). Shortly after their meeting in 1875, the two talented watchmakers decided to join forces and founded the firm that would someday come to be known as Audemars, Piguet et Cie.

Almost from the beginning, Audemars was in charge of production and the technical side, while his partner Piguet focused on sales. Their partnership was not an immediate success, however. In fact, the Audemars Piguet trademark was not even registered until 1882 and the firm's "official founding" did not take place until 1889. Already, however, Audemars Piguet et Cie had become the third largest employer for watch manufacturing in the Canton of Vaud. More importantly perhaps, both men had deliberately shifted their focus towards the production of high-quality, complex, ultra-precise watches.

Shortly after the official founding in 1889, a branch office was built in Geneva and the partners decided to produce all of their components and assemble the finished watches in-house. This allowed the firm to maintain strict quality control over their products and as a result, only products of the highest quality left the workshop. In short order, the greatest, most renowned retail jewelers were ordering watches from Le Brassus. Today, one can find many Audemars Piguet pocket watches identifiable as an Audemars Piguet only by their serial number, the result of prestigious jewelers, such as Gubelin and Tiffany & Co., wanting only their own name engraved on the movement and case, and not that of Audemars Piguet.

It is interesting to note that between 1894 and 1899, a mere 1,208 watches were produced. Among these were some of the most sophisticated timepieces ever made, including the legendary "Grande Complication" series, which is still being produced today. Aside from normal time indication, a Grande Complication timepiece offers minute repetition, perpetual calendar, and chronograph.

At around this same time, the retail operations in Geneva and London were transformed into full-service branches where watches were not only serviced but also assembled. By 1914, Audemars Piguet launched a project to develop a watch so complicated that it would take six years of continuous production before the watch could be delivered to the importers Guignard & Golay in London.

The watch in question was a pocket watch with two dials and a one-minute tourbillon mechanism. As well as a tourbillon, this double dial Lepine, gold watch included a minute repeater, a chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour counters, perpetual calendar with displays which "jump" at midnight, display of the leap year cycle, the "age" and phases of the moon, and power reserve display. The second face showed an additional 24 hours based on the sidereal hour, moving a pair of independent hands. A special system connected to this gear-train makes it possible to see the changes in the London sky at any time of the day or night, through an oval-shaped opening in the rear dial. The sky is represented by 315 stars engraved on a plate of gold, enameled in blue. The stars, with their respective names, are all clearly visible.

Unfortunately, it was the last triumph for the founding partners. Audemars died in 1918. The following year, so did Edward Piguet.

After the founders' death, Audemars Piguet continued to prosper, establishing several technical milestones with the creation of the world's smallest minute repeater watch, having a diameter of just 15.8 millimeters; the debut of a Hunter Model (hinged-lid pocket watch) with a jumping second hand, also featuring a barometer, quarter repeater, independent second hand, the date and day of the week; and in 1925, another first: the world's thinnest pocket watch measuring just 1.32 millimeters. The year 1928 also saw the development of the world's first skeletonized pocketwatch.

Needless to say, then as now, Audemars Piguet was considered one of the finest watch manufacturers in the world. Business boomed, as did the world economy. Customers of Audemars Piguet included such prestigious jewelers as Gubelin, Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Bulgari. Unfortunately, the company's success ground to a shocking halt in 1929 when only 737 watches were sold. By contrast, nearly 2,000 watches had been sold in 1920. With the stock market crash in 1929 and the subsequent Depression, there were suddenly very few customers for expensive watches. Like other Swiss watch companies, Audemars Piguet was forced to layoff most of its workforce, until hitting rock bottom in 1932, when just two watches were produced.

Despite the hard times, the company bounced back following World War II, thanks to the success of its chronographs and ultra-thin (the famous nine-ligne calibre 2003) dress watches.

The 1950's and 1960's saw a major rebound in the firm's sales. In 1967, in cooperation with Jaeger LeCoultre, a new record for the thinnest (2.45 mm) automatic movement, with a centrally placed rotor of 21-carat gold, was established. Just three years later, in 1970, the watchmakers of Audemars Piguet premiered the world's thinnest movement (3.05 mm) to include date display and a central rotor made of gold. The year 1972, of course, marked the debut of what has become the signature model for Audemars Piguet, the "Royal Oak".

Designed by the legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta, its octagonal shape, steel edges and the use of prominent hexagonal screws as a design feature strike a perfect balance between power and elegance. Worthy of its name, the Royal Oak has since become a legend. Its octagonal design, originally produced only in high-grade steel, took the breath away even of many professionals. However, when the Royal Oak was unveiled at the 1972 European watchmaking fair in Basel with a price tag of just 3,300 SFr. -- unheard of for a watch bearing the Audemars Piguet name -- its success was beyond even its creators' expectations!

In 1993, the company museum, housed in the original workshop of Jules Audemars and Edward Piguet, was established. This museum, a tribute to the company's visionary founders, allows watch enthusiasts to discover Audemars Piguet technology "from A to Z." Its exhibits retrace the key stages in the company's history, and show many of the creations that made Audemars Piguet famous, including the Grande Complication. As well as its unique collection of antique watches, and in particular of watch complications, this very unusual museum enables visitors to see the intricacy and precision required in horology, by observing two master watchmakers at work in the modern Audemars Piguet atelier which is a permanent feature of the museum.

That same year, a new model in the Royal Oak collection premiered: the Royal Oak Offshore, which is water resistant to a depth of 10 atmospheres. The Offshore model offers following functions: chronograph to 1/5 second, tachymeter, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, date display, seconds display, automatic movement with central rotor in 21-carat gold.

Three years later, in 1996, a wristwatch version of the famous "Grand Complication" premiered at Basel. More than 600 components are contained in an integrated movement that does not exceed 8.5 mm in height. It is a technical marvel that marries old-fashioned craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology, such as computer-aided design (CAD). It was also in 1996 that Audemars Piguet embarked on a new era, becoming one of the first major watch companies to represent itself on the Internet with its official Web site.

Today, Audemars Piguet remains one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world -- yet despite the company's enormous success (AP even owns 40% of Jaeger-LeCoultre), every watch is still made by hand the old-fashioned way - one at a time. Today, along with Patek Philippe (PP) and Vacheron Constantin (VC), AP is considered to be one of the "big-three" as one of the finest watches in the world.