EBEL 1911 BTR, 2006

Defined by their bold aesthetics and sophisticated technical features, the new 1911 BTR models reaffirm Ebel’s expertise at creating watches designed to fulfill contemporary men’s tastes and desires. All are powered exclusively by Ebel proprietary COSC-certified mechanical movements, each one developed, assembled and controlled in Ebel’s workshops in Switzerland: the historical Automatic Chronograph Caliber 137, the new Automatic GMT Caliber 240 and the new Automatic Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Caliber 288. The iconic design of the 1911 BTR provides an ideal showcase for demonstrating the brand’s unique horological expertise.

Superlative bodywork and design features

The legendary design of the 1911 has been enlarged and given a more dynamic and sophisticated edge. The most striking characteristic of the newly refined BTR body is its sheer size and sturdiness: the larger hexagonal case, 44.5 mm in diameter and water-resistant to a pressure of 10 atm, features a 32 mm dial opening and a broader more expressive bezel secured by powerful screws. This blend of unmistakable virility and refinement is also epitomized in the distinctive wristbands that combine imposing stature with the supremely comfortable feel and fit of the rugged metal bracelet, or hand-stitched alligator strap. Extreme readability is a key feature of the 1911 BTR, enhanced by dedicated “color-coded” hands that enable the man who wears one to distinguish, at a glance, between normal time-related functions and chronograph measurements. Contrasting alternating types of surface finishing and decoration, a BTR timepiece exudes a strong and virile visual appeal arising from an array of forceful details:

• powerful notched and protected push-buttons and screw-down crown with embossed double “E” logo, the symbol of Ebel’s watchmaking excellence
• finely crafted dial with a resolutely architectural charisma evinced by the faceted “measuring instrument” hands with counterweights and “roof-top” style hour-markers
• sophisticated counter subdials featuring an inverted “Clous de Paris” motif
• sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides to provide optimal dial readability
• hand-sewn, luxurious large-grain alligator leather straps with top-stitching echoing the color of the chronograph hands
• high-quality Ebel folding clasp

Reaffirming Ebel’s historical legitimacy in the field of mechanical watchmaking, 1911 BTR watches are driven exclusively by in-house movements. Each one is chronometer-certified by the COSC and its intricate and elegant workings are visible through a sapphire crystal case-back:

• 1911 BTR Automatic Chronograph, powered by Ebel Caliber 137, the first ever 100% Ebel mechanical movement, representing the culmination of five years of research. By integrating its 322 parts in parallel, Ebel watchmakers achieved a surprisingly trim movement capable of driving multiple functions. Its innovative technical solutions include an off-centered reversing device that enables bidirectional winding, resulting in enhanced performance. The Caliber 137 serves as the basis for two new Ebel movements in the 1911 BTR collection.
• 1911 BTR Automatic GMT, powered by Ebel Caliber 240
• 1911 BTR Automatic Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, powered by Ebel Caliber 288

All Ebel proprietary movements are distinguished by the unmistakable outlines of the new Architects of Time oscillating weight, a unique design detail that symbolizes the fusion of the architect’s compass and the “E” of Ebel. With its highly original openwork structure, this vital component serves not only as a distinctive signature of Ebel watchmaking expertise, but also as a window that reveals even more of the beauty of the movement.

BELL & ROSS Instrument BR02 - 1000 M

Here is a new professional diving watch designed by Bell & Ross to be extremely readable and water resistant. The BR02 watch is fitted with photoluminescent large hands and indexs to make it easier to read while deep sea diving. The unidirectional inside bezel graduated to 60 mn is marked by photoluminescent indexs and provides great visibility when underwater. The water resistance is 1,000 M and during deep sea diving, its decompression valve balances the pressure inside the case with pressure outside the case.

The BR02 Instrument also provides optimum comfort through the ergonomics of the case and the flexibilty of the strap. The case is 44 mm in diameter and is made of a 316L glass bead blasted steel with a vacuum carbon black finish. The crystal is anti-reflective to make sure visibilty is not impaired. This new dive watch from Bell & Ross costs a little over $4800 which seems a little steep considering you can find a Bell & Ross Hydromax for well under three grand.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 1969

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer, 1969.
Black matte dial.
Lightly, and evenly aged off-white luminous material.
Screw down crown.
Solid link Oyster bracelet.
36 mm strong steel case.

Though it had later become a classic watch, its origin was that of a "tool" type watch. It actually was developed for explorers, and was used by members of the successful 1953 Everest expedition as well as other expeditions before and after.
(The Rolex Milgauss, a very rare watch, is another tool watch, developed for a rather narrowly defined scientist, needing to work in areas of high magnetic field strength. The Milgauss could handle it. I'd love a Milgauss, but they're very rare and very expensive.)

Dial is easily readable, with large luminous triangle at 12, Arabic numerals and markers. Mercedes style hands, like the Submariner. Earlier models had variations on dial signage, and hands, but the 1016, I believe, always had this appearance. Tritiated luminous material is no longer active.
The watch has a bezel as a separate piece from the rest of the case, to which the crystal is fitted.
You can barely see the Rolex Explorer model 6350 showing on the left wrist of Tenzing Norgay, left, in this picture taken after he and Hillary summitted Mt. Everest in May of 1953.
Ad from National Geographic, June 1958. List price, $165. The appearance has not changed much, but I think this 6350 might have had a gilt dial. The links on the bracelet were rivet. Chronometer certified.