Thursday, 27 March 2008

Blancpain - Equation Marchante M.Y.S


Blancpain creates a Limited Edition Le Brassus Marchante M.Y.S. featuring an evolution of its world record-breaking equation marchante movement. This Limited Edition is to mark the seventh anniversary of Blancpain’s partnership with the Monaco Yacht Show.

For two centuries, perhaps the rarest of watchmaking complications has been the equation of time. Measuring the difference between the length of the solar day, which constantly varies over the course of the year, and the length of the standard 24-hour civil day, an equation of time display has graced only the most exclusive watches and clocks. Even more refined and exclusive is the equation of time display that shows both solar time and civil time with two separate minute hands. In all of watchmaking history, only a handful of the most important clock and pocket watches have featured this form of dual time, termed ‘equation marchante’ or ‘running equation’ display. Indeed equation marchante timepieces have been so exclusive that nearly every single one produced over the last two hundred years has been catalogued and recorded as a historically significant piece.

Blancpain startled the watchmaking world in 2004 when it revealed that it had succeeded in miniaturizing the running equation, which had previously only been built in large-scale clocks and pocket watches. At the Basel fair, Blancpain unveiled the first wristwatch in the world featuring a running equation of time, the Le Brassus Equation Marchante. This landmark timepiece was produced in a limited series of 50 pieces, which were all eagerly snapped up by passionate collectors. However to mark the seventh anniversary of Blancpain’s partnership with the Monaco Yacht Show, Blancpain has created a Limited Edition Le Brassus timepiece featuring an evolution of its world record-breaking equation marchante movement.It is modern convenience that our timepieces measure and display an exact 24-hour day. Were we more tied to the ancient sundial, we would know that the length of the day changes considerably over the course of the year. The variability in the length of the solar day is the result of what some may consider two flaws in the earth’s position relative to the sun. First the orbit of the earth is not round, but in fact highly elliptical. Second, instead of rotating on an axis which is perpendicular to the plane of the orbit, the earth is inclined at an angle of 23 degrees. These two abnormalities combine to produce days, which consist of a single rotation of the earth relative to the sun, of slightly longer or shorter length depending on the time of the year. Ancient astronomers fascinated by the movement of heavenly bodies, most particularly the most important orb in the sky, the sun, centuries ago began recording data showing the changes in the length of the solar day throughout the course of a year. Their findings have been most commonly expressed by a complex oblong chart termed an analemma. The twin kidney shape of the analemma shows that on but four days a year (April 15th, June 14th, September 2nd and December 26th – these dates change with the leap years) 24-hour civil time and solar time have caught up with each other. At other times the differences between the two may be as much as -16 minutes and + 15 minutes.

Mechanical marvels lie behind the realization of an equation of time display. Through precise calculations, watchmakers have developed a figure eight cam which mechanically mimics the analemma curve derived by astronomers. Turning once per year, this cam is used to drive a finger producing a plus minus display of the difference between solar time and civil time. Blancpain wished to go further however. Its watchmakers strove to create for the first time in a wristwatch an equation display that would simultaneously show both civil time and solar time on two separate minute hands. This was the Le Brassus Equation Marchante watch. The first of the two minute hands indicates civil time in a conventional fashion. The second minute hand, adorned with the image of a golden sun, indicates solar time. The user can thus, directly read at a glance both civil time and solar time, as well as visualize the ever-changing relationship between the two. Yet the simplicity of the appearance of the running equation display gives little hint of the complex horological movement that lies under the surface of the dial. The mechanism of the Equation Marchante has been integrated within a self-winding movement, itself combined with the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar module. In turn the equation mechanism is synchronized with the perpetual calendar. The great obstacle which Blancpain surmounted in the design of the running equation was finding a way to drive the solar hand from two sources, the regular running train of the watch, powering the civil minute hand, and a gear train driven by the precision figure eight shaped equation cam. The solution was found in an innovative system of differential gears. The solar hand is, thus, simultaneously powered by two separate sources, its position constantly effected by both. Because the solar time indication is constantly changing in real time, the term ‘running equation’ is the perfect description.The Limited Edition Equation Marchante M.Y.S is derived from the 2004 watch. Adding to its refinement, the equation display in this new limited edition highlights the running solar hand by dispensing with a plus minus indication which was included on the original watch. The Le Brassus Equation Marchante M.Y.S. is based upon Blancpain’s calibre 3863 and its 364 components. Endowed with a 72-hour power reserve, this mechanical self-winding movement displays, in addition to the running equation of time by two separate hands, indications of the date, day of the week, month, leap years and small seconds at 6 o’clock. The Equation Marchante thus focuses on essentials, ensures excellent legibility, and features a blend of inner complexity and apparent outward simplicity. In keeping with the same spirit, all the components of this mechanism are chamfered, polished, rhodium-plated, decorated and assembled by hand by Blancpain’s master-watchmakers.

To celebrate this encounter between astronomy and haute horlogerie, a circular aperture at 6 o’clock on the dial allows one to gaze upon the equation cam, whose position portrays the universe in miniature. The small seconds hand also turns in the centre of this opening. The hand-sewn crocodile leather strap is fitted with a folding clasp in red gold.Paying homage to the master watchmakers, designers and artisans who have contributed for the past 270 years to Blancpain’s acknowledged mastery of the watchmaking art, the Equation Marchante M.Y.S. is crafted in an exclusive limited series of seven pieces, each hand-engraved and personalized following the owner’s wishes.

Blancpain Quantieme Perpetuel GMT Havana


A new model with an eternal calendar, a Moon phase indicator has appeared in the collection of the most complicated watches of Blancpain Le Brassus company. The design of the model was incpired by the theme of Cuban cigars. 42 mm case is made of platinum. There are 150 watches in the series. The automatic caliber has running time of 100 hours. The band is, of course, made of Louisiana alligator leather. You can easily swim wearing this watch (100 m waterproof).

IWC Portuguese Chrono-Automatic


Stainless steel case with black crocodile leather strap, Chronograph, Self-winding, Small seconds with stop function, Convex sapphire glass, Mechanical chronograph movement, Water-resistant to 30M

Brand: IWC
Series: Portuguese
Model: 3714.01
Gender/Size: Gents

Thursday, 6 March 2008

Amethyst


The name amethyst comes from the Greek word amethustos, which means "not to be drunken", the stone is supposed to control evil thoughts, calm the passions, quicken the intelligence and make the wearer more shrewd. Perhaps for these reasons, it was often used in ecclesiastic rings. It is said to be all powerful, with the ability to prevent warriors from being wounded, help the hunter find game, protect against disease, and put demons to flight.
In Tibet, amethyst is considered to be sacred to Buddha and rosaries are often fashioned from it.
Because amethyst is thought to encourage celibacy and symbolize piety, it was very important in the ornamentation of Catholic and other churches in the Middle Ages. It was, in particular, considered to be the stone of bishops and they still often wear amethyst rings.
Amethyst is also mentioned in the Bible (Ex. 28:19; 39:12) as one of the 12 stones adorning the breastplate (hoshen) of the high priests of Yahweh.
The legend of the origin of amethyst comes from Greek mythology. Dionysus, the god of intoxication, was angered one day by an insult from a mere mortal and swore revenge on the next mortal that crossed his path, creating fierce tigers to carry out his wish. Along came unsuspecting Amethyst, a beautiful young maiden on her way to pay tribute to the goddess Diana. Diana turned Amethyst into a stature of pure crystalline quartz to protect her from the brutal claws. Dionysus wept tears of wine in remorse for his action at the sight of the beautiful statue. The god's tears stained the quartz purple, creating the gem we know today.
Amethyst is a variety of quartz which occurs in a transparent light to dark purple. It has long been treasured by kings and queens as well as high figures in religious sects because of its rich, royal color. It can be traced back to the Minoan period in Greece (c. 2500 B.C.) where it was found as polished cabochons (dome-shaped stones) set in gold. Amethysts were popular in the parures (matching sets) of the 1820's. They were a favorite medium for Art Nouveau craftsmen and are still favorites of creative modern jewelry designers. A major reason for their popularity in jewelry design has been their wide availability and reasonable price. Fine pieces are attainable with not much difficulty and lent themselves to freedom of design.

Pearl


A pearl is a hard, rounded object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle) of a living shelled mollusk. Just like the shell of mollusks, a pearl is composed of calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form, which has been deposited in concentric layers. The ideal pearl is perfectly round and smooth, but many other shapes of pearls occur, see baroque pearl.
The finest quality pearls have been highly valued as gemstones and objects of beauty for many centuries, and the word pearl has become a metaphor for something rare, fine, and admirable.
Almost any shelled mollusk can, by natural processes, produce some kind of "pearl" when an irritating microscopic object becomes trapped within the mollusk's mantle folds, but virtually none of these "pearls" are considered to be gemstones.
True iridescent pearls, the most desirable pearls, are produced by two groups of molluscan bivalves or clams. One family lives in the sea: the pearl oysters. The other, very different group of bivalves live in freshwater, and these are the river mussels, for example, see the freshwater pearl mussel.
Saltwater pearls can grow in several species of marine pearl oysters in the family Pteriidae. Freshwater pearls grow within certain (but by no means all) species of freshwater mussels in the order Unionida, the families Unionidae and Margaritiferidae. All of these bivalves are able to make true pearls because they have a thick inner shell layer composed of "mother of pearl" or nacre. The mantle of the living bivalve can create a pearl in the same way that it creates the pearly inner layer of the shell.
Fine gem quality saltwater and freshwater pearls can and do sometimes occur completely naturally, but this is a rare occurrence. Many hundreds of pearl oysters or pearl mussels have to be gathered and opened (killed) in order to find even one pearl, and for many centuries that was the only way pearls were obtained. This was the main reason why pearls fetched such extraordinary prices in the past. In modern times however, almost all the pearls for sale were formed with a good deal of expert intervention from human pearl farmers.
A true pearl is made from layers of nacre, by the same living process as is used in the secretion of the mother of pearl which lines the shell. A "natural pearl" is one that formed without any human intervention at all, in the wild, and these are very rare. A "cultured pearl" on the other hand, is one that has been formed on a pearl farm. The great majority of pearls on the market are cultured pearls.
Imitation or fake pearls are also widely sold in inexpensive jewelry, but the quality of the iridescence is usually very poor, and generally speaking, fake pearls are usually quite easy to distinguish from the real thing.
Pearls have been harvested, or more recently cultivated, primarily for use in jewelry, but in the past they were also stitched onto lavish clothing, as worn, for example, by royalty. Pearls have also been crushed and used in cosmetics, medicines, or in paint formulations.
Pearl is considered to be the birthstone for June.

Tuesday, 4 March 2008

Emerald


Emeralds are a variety of the mineral beryl (Be3Al2(SiO3)6,) colored green by trace amounts of chromium and sometimes vanadium. Beryl has a hardness of 7.5 - 8 on the 10 point Mohs scale of mineral hardness. Most emeralds are highly included, so their brittleness (resistance to breakage) is classified as generally poor. The origin of the word "emerald" is said to be a Sanskrit word meaning "green".


Emerald is regarded as the traditional birthstone for May, as well as the traditional gemstone for the astrological signs of Taurus , Cancer and sometimes Gemini. One of the more quaint anecdotes on emeralds was by the 16th century historian Brantome, who referred to the many impressive emeralds the Spanish under Cortez had brought back to Europe from Latin America. On one of Cortez most famous emeralds he had the text engraved Inter Natos Mulierum non sur-rexit mayor (Among them borne of woman there hath not arisen a greater Man. XI, 11) which referred to John the Baptist. Brantome considered engraving such a beautiful and simple product of nature sacrilegious and considered this act the cause for Cortez loss of an extremely precious pearl (to which he dedicated a work A beautiful and incomparable pearl) and even for the death of King Charles IX who died soon after.


VARIETY INFORMATION:
VARIETY OF : Beryl , Be3 Al2 Si6 O18 .
USES : Gemstone.
BIRTHSTONE FOR : May
COLOR : various shades of green.
INDEX OF REFRACTION : 1.57 - 1.60
BIREFRINGENCE : 0.004 - 0.008
HARDNESS : 7.5 - 8
CLEAVAGE : one direction, poor.
CRYSTAL SYSTEM : hexagonal
Pleochroic : weak

Monday, 3 March 2008

Ruby


Ruby is a pink to blood red gemstone, a variety of the mineral corundum (aluminium oxide). The common red color is caused mainly by the element chromium. Its name comes from ruber, Latin for red. Other varieties of gem-quality corundum are called sapphires. It is considered one of the four precious stones, together with the sapphire, the emerald and the diamond. Improvements used include color alteration, improving transparency by dissolving rutile inclusions, healing of fractures (cracks) or even completely filling them.
Prices of rubies are primarily determined by color (the brightest and best "red" called Pigeon Blood Red, command a huge premium over other rubies of similar quality). After color follows clarity: similar to diamonds, a clear stone will command a premium, but a ruby without any needle-like rutile inclusions will indicate the stone has been treated one way or another. Cut and carat (size) also determine the price.

Diamond


In mineralogy, Diamond is the allotrope of carbon where the carbon atoms are arranged in an isometric-hexoctahedral crystal lattice. Its hardness and high dispersion of light make it useful for industrial applications and jewelry. It is the hardest known natural material and the third-hardest known material after aggregated diamond nanorods and ultrahard fullerite.
Diamonds are specifically renowned as a material with superlative physical qualities; they make excellent abrasives because they can be scratched only by other diamonds, Borazon, ultrahard fullerite, or aggregated diamond nanorods, which also means they hold a polish extremely well and retain their lustre. Approximately 130 million carats (26,000 kg) are mined annually, with a total value of nearly USD $9 billion, and about 100,000 kg (220,000 lb) are synthesized annually.
The name diamond derives from the ancient Greek adamas (αδάμας; “invincible”). They have been treasured as gemstones since their use as religious icons in ancient India and usage in engraving tools also dates to early human history. Popularity of diamonds has risen since the 19th century because of increased supply, improved cutting and polishing techniques, growth in the world economy, and innovative and successful advertising campaigns. They are commonly judged by the “four Cs”: carat, clarity, color, and cut.
Roughly 49% of diamonds originate from central and southern Africa, although significant sources of the mineral have been discovered in Canada, India, Russia, Brazil, and Australia. They are mined from kimberlite and lamproite volcanic pipes, which brought to the surface the diamond crystals from deep in the Earth where the high pressure and temperature enables the formation of the crystals. The mining and distribution of natural diamonds are subjects of frequent controversy such as with concerns over the sale of conflict diamonds (aka blood diamonds) by African paramilitary groups.
Google